Oaxaca 2009 (No Clever Title Yet)

First day con­fu­sion. Imag­ine our sur­prise to arrive in the Zoco­lo this morn­ing and dis­cov­er that the Car­rera Panamer­i­cana was fin­ish­ing it’s first stage in our front yard. So to speak. Lots of clas­sic cars (with clas­sic dri­vers) ral­ly­ing across Mex­i­co. You can find the whole sto­ry of a race that was revived on the official […]

Day 3, in which we passed through 3300 years of history

Today was our first day of being offi­cial “tourists”. We went out with Jane and Nico, our guides, and five oth­er peo­ple who are stay­ing here at Casa Colo­nial. Today’s jour­ney was to the north into the val­ley of Etla. Sec­tions of adobe wall are every where. First we went to San Jose de Mogote to see […]

Day 4, in which we visit many things that Rudolfo Morelos loved

Day 4 (which was actu­al­ly yes­ter­day) we went to Ocot­lan. Birth­place of the painter Rudol­fo More­los. But before we got out of town I saw this set of signs and thought you all need­ed to see them as well. Ocot­lan is south of the city of Oax­a­ca. The biggest build­ing in town is the church. Unlike […]

Day 5, in which Jim visits Monte Alban

Today, the ‘tour’ was sched­uled to go up to Monte Alban, a pre-columbian arche­o­log­i­cal site just west of Oax­a­ca. My love­ly bride has seen it once, that was enough for her, so the tour depart­ed slight­ly down on troop strength. It was a beau­ti­ful day, some cloud cov­er so it did­n’t get too hot, but […]

Day 6, in which we went to the market

Today began with a trip to the Abas­tos mar­ket, near the south edge of the cen­tral dis­trict of oax­a­ca. Today was the open­ing of the spe­cial ‘Muer­tos’ sec­tion of the mar­ket, full of spe­cial flow­ers, can­dles, trin­kets and food for the “dia de los muer­tos” cel­e­bra­tions. We bought flow­ers, can­dles, lit­tle skele­ton fig­urines, copal incense, […]

Day 9, in which there is a lot of thread(s)

Today is the Hal­loween for most of you all. Here in Mex­i­co it is the day before Muer­tos. There’s lots of get­ting ready and clean­ing and arrang­ing going on. We were out and about doing tourista things this morn­ing. Our des­ti­na­tion was Teoti­t­lan de Valle, home to the most famous of the Zapotec weavers. We started […]

Day 10 — in which there are pots and metal creatures

Most of the day was spent in San Bar­to­lo Coy­ote­pec. Our first stop was at the work­shop of the fam­i­ly of pot­ter Dona Rosa. The Dona Rosa invent­ed the bur­nish­ing tech­nique that pro­duces the glossy black pot­tery that the vil­lage has become known for. Her son don Valente con­tin­ues the tra­di­tion. Here are three pots […]